这是2015年3月，Anna Wintour在Oxford Union做的演讲，这也是她第二次来牛津大学的Oxford Union做讲座。作为世界知名的大学辩论俱乐部：Oxford Union邀请过众多世界和历史名人到此分享人生真谛与成功秘诀，
让我喜欢这则演讲的原因，不是因为Anna Wintour是Vogue的主编，让我喜欢的是这则演讲中Anna表现出的紧张，自我修正与那些很切中要害的话——这些话在如今的新媒体时代显然充满了一种“乡愁”意味。
这几天，我特别花了一些时间把我认为有意思的观点找出来，从Youtube下载了视频以及演讲结束后Anna Wintour和学生的问答环节在此和大家分享。作为一个英语爱好者，以及英国英语的热爱者，非常喜欢和英语学习的人分享交流这两则视频，如果你是英国控，这两则视频都是赏心悦目的，牛津大学的辩论大厅似乎依然保留了那种历史的况味，就连Anna Wintour来到牛津，也觉得是intimidating的。但是Anna 回到英国，她的那种英国味道就特别浓郁。那我们就从这则讲座的只言片语聊开去吧。
“女魔头”也会局促紧张
从演讲的开始我们得知，Anna的家族非常渊博与拥有学术传统，她说，“I came from a highly academic family, my brother and cousin were from Oxford, and my sister came from Cambridge, my grandfather who taught law at Harvard. My parents went to Cambridge. It is intimidating; I left school at the age of 16, and straight to work. It’s a path that I sometimes regret; my children make friends at university at his life。”16岁离开学校进入社会，开始自己的工作，来到牛津大学做演讲，她自感紧张和局促。以前看过纪录片，Anna的父亲：Charles Wintour其实是伦敦知名的新闻从业者，Anna身体里也流淌了新闻的血液，我觉得Anna 最为让人觉得extraordinary的是修正了fashion的意义，从她执掌Vogue开始，fashion journalism 开始成为一个有着突出意义的名词。
Anna说，让我们不要那么“教条机械”：“Start to say something rather unorthodox, in the British cores of higher learning:Please don’t become over specialized, be intellectually free, try lots and lots of different things. Don't close your mind to other callings.My ownchild Charlie came to Oxford to study modern history , thinking he would be a journalist or economist, four years later, he realized his real love was medicine. He came back from the Oxford a very different young man when he left,he really matured and found out what did he want to do in his life.”Anna给年轻人的第一个忠告是不要过于“专业”，只专研一件事物，必然导致视野狭窄，我喜欢“intellectually free”——自由自在，睿智敏锐。她以自己的儿子Charles为列，讲述大学在人成长中的重要作用:“discovering opportunities, meeting different people and opening your eyes to all kinds of paths.”
“Career wise how important it is not to be too highly specialized.It is crucial to have multiple interests and skill sets and try possibly fields and undertakings.”
▲Anna Wintour与女儿Bee Shaffer
面对新媒体的旧情怀在Anna带领的Vogue团队中，Vogue杂志本身和Vogue的网站以及新媒体呈现截然不同的风格。Anna在这则演讲中提到，他们全然迎接这个时代的新媒体技术创新和科技风暴：“To embrace the change”,她邀请很多新媒体的重要人物和CEO来Vogue和大家交流，“invite leading figures and CEOs from all kinds of companies :Google, Instagram, twitter to talk to the editor-in-chief.”
但是Anna说，“we still believe in a little bit celerity and fashion portfolio that Vogue specializing to separate the print magazine from what everyone else is doing, it makes us more special and luxury in the world that is moving so fast , I am attempting to making them even more wonderful , something you cannot see anywhere else, but on the website, there is zero interest creating that imagery.”——传统杂志确实更应该坚持自己在新媒体时代的一种传统，旧的情怀，因为这些才真正是让传统杂志显得特别和奢侈的地方。相反，和传统的杂志媒体相比，Anna说，Vogue新媒体的每一个人都是自给自足，一个人做多个人的活儿：“Everyone who is working for the website of Condé Nast is self-sufficient —that is a terribly important message today. It’s so important to understand the digital world and want to be part of it.”
Anna说，新媒体的创作和编辑方式或多或少让他想起了1970年代自己在伦敦做杂志的时代，那个时代，一个时尚编辑，要完成所有的工作：“in my case, find the clothes, going to shoots, write the captions, check the prices, there were not departments .”正是因为这份一人多角色的工作经历让如今的Anna回忆起来分外珍贵，也许是那个年代的这份杂志运作经费拮据之状况，一人要做多个人的活儿，却让自己有了更多的创作成长空间，去冒险与学会独立运作，内心变得强大：“Working in the magazine in London came with enormous advantages of tiny stuff, and even tiny budget ,which put premier on originality,independence and risk-taking—this I think hasn’t changed.”社交媒体时代，这份对于独创性的追求其实不应该改变。
Anna说到英国依然是新闻与艺术学习的好地方：“England is still the best training ground for journalism and the arts. The smallest scale and the sense of freedom that allows are unparalleled.”——这句话说得很好：最小规模（创意平台）与被给予的自由意识都是无与伦比的（在英国）。
她再度强调，不要只专攻一件事物，不要让自己走入窄路：“In the case young people today probably, it make you better what you are doing rather just being good at one thing.People are very narrow and focused are really frustrating.”
寻找的始终是一个观点
在这次的Oxford Union演讲中，第一次听到Anna说Condé Nast给人的印象是非常冷漠自大的：“I will be the first to admit: Condé Nast: we have been guilty of arrogance.I hope that is changing.”
那是什么样的品质可以打动这位时尚“女魔头”呢？她告诉大家：“One of the things that I am always looking for, whether it is in a collection,or a piece of writing, or photograph or job candidate, is a point of view.”——你的观点，只有你的立场和观点可以引起Anna Wintour的注意！
因为她接着给出意见：“To trust and cultivate your taste, your opinion matters.”只要你相信你自己的品味，坚持和培养这份品味，你就是值得尊重的，相信和坚持自己的观点。“You don’t want to spend your entire life clicking and liking.”——这句话是Anna奉送给我们这些习惯于在社交媒体上“点赞”和刷屏的人的。
Anna认为：“I am struck these days by how often people come up to me and ask to take photograph,instead shaking hands, reading one’s eyes and actually having a conversation.Even during the shows today, people are busy documenting with the iPad the moment, they forget actually look at the clothes right in front of them.”是的，社交媒体时代，大家已经忘记了人与人交流的基本准则，与人交谈的技巧，握手，看到对方的眼睛。Anna评价道在如今的时装秀场，每个人都在用iPad记录时装秀的瞬间，但是他们忘记了观察面前的衣服。“Social media is great, but don’t let it become a substitute for living.”
不要减少自己的经历与训练，这些都是人生历练：“I also advise you strongly not to discount experience and training;this is something I tell young designers. It is better work with the best, to learn from the best and have the freedom to try various things, make mistakes and perhaps to prove it.”向优秀的人学习，尝试不同的东西，犯错也没有什么关系，也许你还可以证明自己的错误。
Anna以Burberry设计总监Christopher Bailey为列，她认为Christopher Bailey在达到现在这样的状态和地位之前，所走过的道路是平稳但并非简单的一段路程，没有那种一蹴而就的成功，所有的成功都是在经历和付出之后，经过积累才能得到的：“（Christopher Bailey）took quiet but steady routes to the top. To be famous these days with no grounding, no substance is not especially difficult. I urge you to seek to stick relevant agile and educated.”Anna认为在新媒体时代，那些毫无基本储备和累积的人出名和成功并非是非常困难的了，但是她提醒年轻人，保持相对应的灵敏与接受良好的教育是很重要的。
美国印象与压力生存
作为一个在美国纽约生活和工作的英国人，Anna回到英国对一群英国学生讲自己对于美国的看法：
“My time in America: Americans drink coffee instead of tea.”——她很幽默！她确实爱喝星巴克。
“They exercise with every possible opportunity.”——我倒觉得可能只有纽约人才是如此？
“And their government got far better than the British tabloids intercepting cell phone calls”——美国政府好像没有失手，英国小报已经报道了太多英国民众手机被拦截监听的新闻。（其实美国的监听丑闻也很多啦！）
不过下面这些话，我很赞同Anna：“America does open one’s eyes to the enormous influence that one can have to do good things in the world. I found in life the more you do, the more you can do.”其实生存在一个不同的环境和文化中，确实能激发你新的创作灵感与不断去挑战和创新的可能。
此外，还有这几点我觉得是说的很好的：
“I urge everyone here to remember how important it is what every stage you are in your life to get outside of yourself and your own ambitions and think about how to help those who are less fortunate. It feeds back what you do and come out of your work.”——我经常认为人生就是由不同的阶段组成的。
“When you live within tension, you create the space to achieve true excellence in every sense.”生存在压力中，反而让你在很多方面，创造出空间去达到真正的卓越。
以下奉送另外两段视频：
这是演讲结束后，Anna与Oxford的学子们的问答环节，非常具有Anna Wintour的风格：
精彩的回答有：
1．Always look forward时尚是关于朝前看的。
2．对于Vogue搬家到One WorldTrade Center怎么看？
她认为当初空荡荡的新世贸大厦很spooky，但是也很感人emotional。我喜欢spooky这个词。
3．关于旧时代的那种魅力：Old days glamour
Anna说：“I think studio 54 is really overrated（被夸大了）, I don't go to night clubs anymore”——很幽默！
“Glamour atheistic is different, you can’t work in the fashion always look ing backwards.” 旧时代的美学风格已经和如今不同，在时尚行业工作，你不能一直往后看。
“Now fashion is more democratic. Everybody is invited to the party, how excited is that.”——同意，鼓掌！
4．“Technology is changing fashion ”科学技术正大大改变着时尚景观
“Fashion is influenced by the culture around it. Technology is really on top of every designer’s mind. The only thing concerns me is that so many design is done by the computer, less and less by designers who actually know how to draw, to drape. I am concerned it might become a little bit too generic.我觉得Anna把文化至于时尚之上是非常聪明的说法，但是她担心的也是技术时代带来的一种后果，到底还有哪些设计师是真正懂得画图的，这不得不让我想到了Yves Saint Laurent那个时代，在YSL巴黎的工作室里，他一幅又一幅地画出心中理想的时装样貌——那真是一种真正的浪漫情怀，技术至上，确实损害了这种浪漫——在我看来。
5．“I believe intravelling a great deal, I don’t believe in meetings. The more you go out, the more you see, the more you experience your life, the more you bring back to your day job.“——旅行让你眼界大开。
6．谈到当年那部电影《穿Prada的女魔头》
Anna说：“I really enjoy the movie,anyone should be extremely honored to be played by Meryl Streep .I found highly amusing.“是的，正是这个意思， "被梅丽尔·斯特里普扮演，谁都会觉得是非常荣耀的。"实际上时尚工作远比电影故事复杂。所以时尚产业：“there is glamous, pleasurable side of it but there it is hard economics”——不要仅仅被靓衫欺骗，时尚面对的不仅仅是这份星光享乐。
7．演讲当天，Anna Wintour穿的是Valentino裙，外套Christopher Bailey设计的Burberry黑色leather jacket.她给出的穿衣要诀是：“Just dress as yourself.”
8．关于明星文化Celebrity culture:
Anna最后评价：“it is always easy to become famous today not for the right reasons today, but I strongly advise you to get a little bit substance under your belt before you become famous.Fame doesn’t necessarily translate into success.”社交媒体时代不按牌理出名很正常，但是在出名之前还是做好储备为佳。“名气”不一定被转译为“成功”。
奉送的第二段视频：
既然在演讲中，Anna Wintour说到了Vogue的新媒体部门，之前在Youtube上很火的Vogue 快问答视频就出自Vogue的digital team，今天就给大家贴出Anna Wintour亲自示范的73个快问答视频：
我觉得不管时尚与否，你都可以多读书，增加智慧，Anna Wintour在视频中提到的书有：
《Victoria》by A.N. Wilson (Andrew Norman Wilson)
《Pride and Prejudice》by Jane Austen
《Enough》by Gabby Giffords
嗯，“Ihate horoscope!”嗯，“I like coffee Ice-cream！”哈哈！！我也是啊！
Note
Oxford Union创建于1823年，全称是“The Oxford Union Society”，是全球知名的大学辩论俱乐部，牛津大学以生产英国著名的政治家著称，而在牛津大学的Oxford Union辩论大厅中，一个世纪多以来，不乏著名的人物在此演讲，名人在此辩论，成为牛津大学的一道人文风景。
